… the rural landscape of Mallorca is not a place to seek inspiration but suitable for people whose minds are already full of ideas in need of recording in absolute silence.” I took Robert Graves’ thought as a beautiful challenge and stayed for two days in Deia. It was a good decision!
Over time, captivated by the place’s beauty in simplicity, celebrities from the worlds of art, fashion, music, film, and literature have come to Deia for peace. In chosen solitude or in pairs creating unparalleled moments, Beatles, Rolling Stones, Jimi Hendrix, David Bowie, Sting, Leonardo DiCaprio, Princess Diana, and many others have written life stories away from the paparazzi’s glare. Today, the village continues to attract prominent names like a magnet.
We arrived in Deia after lunch. From the bus station in the village centre, it would have taken no more than 5 minutes’ walk to our accommodation. Yet, it’s hard to pass by the centuries-old houses without analyzing the plaques with biblical images fixed on many of their facades.
A melancholic air accompanied us along the uphill street leading to the Sant Joan Baptista Church until Hostal Villa Verde Adults Only. We couldn’t have found a more suitable accommodation. The most spectacular view was from here.
In the gentle silence, canvases woven in grey-silver unfurled to be admired, and symphonies in raw green chased away the daily mists drifting in wonder over the stone terraces covered with olive trees, revealing the proud peaks of the Serra de Tramuntana.
In the evening, we wanted to have dinner at a special place, so we went to the Belmond La Residencia Hotel. All tables were pre-booked, so the gastronomic journey I had imagined was not possible. We settled for the view from Café Miró, as we were lucky to find an available table here.
The next day after breakfast, we hiked for over half an hour among terraced olive groves to Cala Deià. As isolated as it is impressive, this rocky cove is truly striking.
From Deia’s centre to Cala Deià, it’s approximately 4 km. We could have taken the main road, but locals recommended Carrer es Clot, following the S’Hortet signs. The path wasn’t difficult, but I advise wearing appropriate footwear (sneakers, trainers) and leaving early in the morning, as it’s not particularly comfortable under the scorching sun. Don’t forget to bring a water bottle!
If you want to go to the beach, consider that there’s no sand and not much space to spread a towel because of the large stones. Also, water shoes are necessary.
You can drive closer to the cove, but parking spaces are limited (paid parking).
In Cala Deià, you’ll find one of the most highly regarded restaurants in Mallorca, Ca’s Patro March. If you’ve watched the thrilling BBC series “The Night Manager,” you’ll surely recognize the place.
Attention! Finding a table without a reservation is not possible here either. Also, note that card payments are not accepted.
Tip
For a delicious breakfast, a great juice, or a perfect dessert, I recommend stepping into S’Hortet. I’ll tell you now: it will brighten your day. Breakfast is served from 10:00 to 13:00.
How do you get to Deia using Public Transport?
If you don’t want to rent a car, you can rely on public transportation. In addition to Mallorca’s well-organized public transport system: buses, minibuses, and trains, it’s also the most affordable way to get around.
From the airport, take line A1 to Estacio Intermodal (the station will be displayed on the bus board). From the station, walk to the right, go down the stairs, and in 2-3 minutes, you’ll reach the bus station from where you’ll take bus 204 to the central station in Soller. The journey takes 30 minutes. Wait for bus 203, which will take you to Deia in 25 minutes.
Good to know!
Bus services are regular, running at fixed hours, and ticket prices vary depending on the distance travelled (from 3 euros/trip to 13.50 euros/trip for cash payment, with a substantial discount for card payment – from 1.80 euros/trip to 8.10 euros/trip). The route and schedule for the journeys are displayed at each station.
Paying by card is recommended not only because it’s faster but also because the price of a ticket is lower than when paying in cash. With the same card, you can pay for multiple people: just tap the card on the machine located on the driver’s right.
The time spent in Deià encouraged us to pause and observe, allowing moments to mean something.
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